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I’ve used the Pile Brush for several months. The 1 1/2″ to 2+” shag carpet, you can’t really tell. If they are industrial runners that’s fine. Some times if you can’t secure them they move. Frayed fibers, wool and polyester fibers, I’d stay away from. It’s called “a vacuum cleaner on steroids” for a reason. What ever a vacuum would do, this is about 5 times the strength (against the nap). In Orlando, it was mentioned about brushes, that the main one is what is to be used unless you do a lot of wool rugs. Then you would use the “vegetable brush.” Also it is a real pain to switch over brushes. So I’ve heard.
Hope this helps.Cody could create a buffer pad pageant! One of each! And may the best pad win!!! Steiner would be there to take the pictures! Ha Ha Ha Sorry it’s late…
Yes, I’m off subject of original post, but a variety pack sounds good. Many operators haven’t used anything other than their original choice of pads at purchase. One of each to confirm what you like the best! I like the idea.Bryan, I so agree!
The day after I called it was on the net and ready for review! It really is E Z!
It’s a great site: http://pendletonor.heavensbest.com see for yourself!
The smart phone version even seems more impressive!It is true that the PH of the fibers are the most important part of PH cleaning. For example: I’ve lifted the first pad after cleaning, and I could hear the crackle from the soap residue in the pad, from previous cleanings. Usually from their home machine. Kirby suds and Bissel – “green machine” leaves the most sudsy soap residue. This residue in the carpet is very high PH, Usually cleaned without a rinse. To counter the residue of high PH, I add Orange Deodorizer to my cleaner to balance the high PH. Therefore no longer leaving a dirt attracting residue in the carpet. It’s not always easy to balance the PH. As stated before PH 5 and PH 9 do not always equal PH7. Most the time you just have to get the feel for things.
To answer the persons question, I clean with a higher PH and finish with a lighter addition of Orange Deodorizer to finish with a balanced non dirt attracting PH.
About 12-15 years ago I had the same situation with a customer. When he called, I had no idea what to do. So, I called “carpet cleaning Master Jedi, Cody Howard” for the knowledge. I can not remember what he said to use, but it worked better than anything the customer tried. It seemed to be gone when I left. I checked back a couple of days latter. The odor was +95% better then the “eye stinging” day I arrived. You could still smell a hint of skunk like it was in the neighborhood down the street. It was easily bearable. Perhaps the Master Jedi could shed some wisdom here… No pressure.
After thinking a while, I think the product was called “Skunk out” from the local vet store.
The process went like this… Spray the “skunk out” thick, clean normally, spray with final step, and rake. Wash pads at laundry mat, pronto! Repeat if needed.
Same with sofa. (used about 3 oz of Orange Deodorizer in the recovery tank.)
But then, it was a long time ago. Jedi Cody?
In my case the house had been aired out for two days before I stared.
P.S. No tomato juice was applied.I feel it’s important to realize the difference between employees and non employee business’s profit margins. When self cleaning I was between 66-73% annually. I my Manage/employee run area, it is about 15-20%. If the focus is on building the business, the profits will be better. IE: the set monthly expenses -vs- the operating expenses from cleaning. The amount of work plays the biggest part in determining the profit margins.
Interestingly Mark, our local group started the SBR “Success by Referral” group. Meet 1st and 3rd Tuesdays 7a. Membership fee: $30 annually. Weekly Cost: $0.00 except the cost of your breakfast if you choose to order. About 27 members. Fun group. $3,000. ROI (approx) Not a big return, but I did say it was a fun group.
