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Do you clean these the same as you would a regular residential home or do you spend less time working on them?
One more thing. I did an experiment with the fabric protector after I had a bad incident with it. I used the fabric protector on a high end home. 24 hours later they spilled wine on the carpet. When they called I thought it would be know problem because of the fabric protector. However, I tried everything and the stain would not come out. I reimbursed the cost of the fabric protector then went home and tried applying protector in different amounts to several different pieces of carpet. After letting it set (over 24 hours) i poured wine on each piece of carpet. The one I applied the amount I usually apply didn’t work at all. of the 5 pieces of carpet the 5th one that I comletely saturated is the only one that worked like I had always expected it to work. Now I am very careful to apply protector very well and also let the customer know it is not a miracle product. However I do tell them it is a very good product and works better than anything else out there.
Now back to the fabric protector. I don’t use the tissue demonstration because I think it is very misleading. I also tell them it is not a miracle cure for all things. I tell them exactly what my experience is with it and in the evaluation, if I don’t see any real need for the protection, I also give that opinion. I often get them to buy it just because they know I am being honest. But most of all, they give me referals because of my honest and true evaluation of their needs. I may not get a $100 sale of fabric protector but the added business covers that loss.
I have been successful being straight forward from the start. I tell them up front that I am not “Cheap”; I always use that term. Cheap has a negetive conotation toward the other cleaners. Next I explain that we are the only ones that have the products we use. I also prefer on sight estimates and explain that it is the only way I can be accurate in pricing. I call it an on sight evaluation of carpet and soiling at no charge. If I get in the home, I book over 98% of jobs. Meeting face to face and seeing the carpet and soiling is an added cost but I can read the customer and see exactly what is needed. I adjust the price according to all factors. The customers see who they are dealing with and are more comfortable and this often closes the deal. I have often been told I am more expensive but I was the only one that would take the time to come and look at the carpet. When in the home I can also try to show off any knowledge I may have of the type of carpet they have and how the cleaning process should be different or adjusted to the type of soiling and the type of fiber.
Also, i much rather work for the property manager. I can explain what needs to be done. I have one trailer park that I do all move outs for a set price. It is very low, $68.00 but they are always very clean and only take about 45 minutes. Great people to work for.
BTW, for the move out tennant I usually offer what I callan economy clean. It is the most basic clean that will get them there deposit back. I charge more by the hour. One hour $95. If they have special stains that they are responsible for I give I tell them the extra cost. I usually get these simply because most carpet cleaners have a minimum of $100 or more.
my biggest problem is the difference in cleaning for the tennant who is moving out or the property manager/owner. The tennant wants the cheapest job but the owner wants the best job. I now just do whatever the person who is paying for the cleaning wants done.
I agree with you but sometimes it depends on previous care. If the floors have been maintained correctly then it is easier and faster to do the job. I have done some that were horrible and regretted taking the job. However the greatest expense is labor because of the time between coats. The products aren’t too bad. Anyway, thanks for your input.
Doug
I now have a second pad that has ripped. It looks like it was driver error. One of my techs must have caught it on something. However, the other pads never ripped open and I have caught them on many objects over the years. I like the micro fiber, but am stll not sure about their durability.
I keep a close watch on my fan. After a while the motor needs to be replaced as well. I probably replace my motor at least once a year. Makes a huge difference. I also replace my brush bar about 3 times per year. That too can make a big difference in how effective your vac works.
Just checked out the Hesco sight Brian mentioned. It is deffinately the cheapest for type A bags. I doubt there is anything cheaper.
Right On Brian!
I once replaced my inner bag 3 times on one room. Fortunately I had bid accordingly. Sometimes when I think I am finished vacuumming I will check my bag. If I determine that it may have been a bit clogged, I will start where I finished and work backward.
One thing I do take into account is the expectation of the customer. I talk to them about it before I start. Some people will actually ask for a more economical cleaning and it doesn’t matter if it is perfect just as long as it looks good. On these jobs I don’t go to excess to get all the dirt out but still make sure I do a better job than my comptitors do.
I went to Sears yesterday and wouldn’t you know they stopped selling the bags in the bundles I use to buy and the new bags are way more expensive. I guess they got tired of me buying them out.
Thanks for the info.
One more question. Do we actually have to buy the vac bags from HB? I looked at the cost and it was unbelievable. I don’t know what I will do if that is where I have to buy them. I think I mentioned this before, but I have been getting mine from Sears. $10.99 for 8 alergen filtration bags and $10.99 for 15 regular bags. When I checked Wally World they were more expensive. I’ll have to check again.
