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true the BBC can leave a few brown strands behind. Have you guys tried boosting up you mixes? I’ve found that can help quite a bit without causing excessive wear to the tips of the fibers.
to take this back to the original question. I have seen the start of mold spores in a carpet that was cleaned with HWE 24 hours before I was there. the owner had said the carpets felt dry the following evening but there was a pet odor. that’s why I was called in. I peeled the carpet back to pull the pad and do a “pet contamination restoration”( feel free to use the phrase) and discovered the spore throughout-not just in the pet affected area. This carpet had never been cleaned before and the home was relatively new. the pad held the moisture in. My point is that mold can occur quicker than you think. And a HWE guy is never going to admit to that. That would be the death of his company. Oh by the way the company responsible for the mold-STANLEY STEAMER-they don’t get carpets cleaner.
I’ve found that once you use a steel wool pad on a job and then try to use it on another job the next day, it does leave behind grey dust or small particles. I now throw a steel wool pad away after every job. I’ve found that using a new one every time seems to do a better job as well. I have not had any customers ask contact me with concerns about hazing. I’ve been telling them to use a little vinager in water to clean them with. I use a new buffing pad every couple of jobs as well. Again I think it does a better job. I tried cleaning them out but have not been happy with their performance afterwards. One problem I’ve had ,however, is and un-even look in the shine of the floor after polishing. I let the wax dry for about 15 min. and buff and buff and sometimes get that un-even look in certain light. I’ve Never had a customer say anything-but I’ve noticed.
the dirt napper puts more strain on the buffer. I agree that it does a great job, but it also can wear fibers down quicker than the pads will. try using the BBC’s. I’ve found they do a really good job.
what I’ve seen is what money you save in gas does not make up for the extra money added to the sticker price.
I too have heard that the selling price is your gross revenue for 1 year, but that is only the base price. You also have to take into consideration vans, buildings, etc. that are paid for and equate those in as well.
I pay my technician percentage. I also give hime $.03 sq.ft. of protectant sales. By paying percentage I find it creates incentive for them to up sell. And it eliminates working slow to milk the clock.
On top of the yellow staining, I’ve had a few experiences where the rug is in the sunlight and the heat causes a smell to come from the backing-like the yellow stain there is no cure. I wasted two trips deodorizing a rug and finally called a rug manufacturer and they passed on that little bit of info to me.
Put a little 101 and citrus boost in your sprayer and lay it down heavy. Let it dwell awhile . Use some old pads and start scrubbing. It may take a few times repeating that process but its been working for me. Make sure your time is reflected in your price. Good luck.
My wife worked for Bank of America, and I worked for my parents trucking company. Boy how things have changed!!!
The truth is- If you recall in a newsletter or email awhile back corporate asked everyone to submit information about their current health insurance, and as I understand it – only the people who have health issues or really need help replied, so the insurance company that corporate was working with thought we were too high of a risk. I would encourage every operator to contact your state owner and ask them to look into a group policy for your state. Also, NASE is cheap but has a lot of restrictions. It’s more like catastrophe coverage. If you have young children or are looking to have children I don’t feel like its a good option. If you have current health issues they most likely wont cover you. I have Blue Cross/Blue Shield and I pay around $400 a month for my wife, two young children and myself. I would, however, like to find out more about a group plan in my state.
I don’t think we need to be sanding wax from wood floors. We’re cleaners not refinishers. You can really screw up a wood floor in a hurry if you don’t know what you’re doing. I’m charging customers $.40 sq ft and explaining to them that this process is not a refinishing but that it is a deep cleaning along with a protective wax application. if there’s some wax build up spay a little 101 with citrus boost or orange deodorizer down and buff it with a “Greenie” pad. Repeat that process if necessary to break down the wax. That’s a much safer approach even if it doesn’t get ALL of the wax up. Your customers will be happy with the end result. Remember we’re cleaner not refinishers.
Tim,
I used to do alot of water damage work. Now I only offer it to my apartment and rental communities. You need to look at a Drieaz 1200 or larger. you need something that will pull at least 30-40 pints a day and has an auto purge on it. If you extract the water proprerly, set your fans to blow under the carpets ( and also leave any area peeled back so the moist air can escape) spay an antimicrobial treatment of some kind ( “Milgo” or even “Simple Green”)into the fans intake so it blows it underneath the capet, and then set a dehu.-you will have great results. Its critical that you spend alot of time extracting as much water as possible before you do any of the other steps! Its a myth about having the heat cranked up. If you do that without “antimicro” you will actually create an environment for mold and mildew spores to grow more rapidly. If you have any questions call me. 888-313-3533-Ammon
