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We just referred a five room stretching job and the cost was $600…My son worked with him and got paid ok, but I have to admit, I would have liked to add that on to my bill for the house cleaning instead.
It takes time to learn stretching and repair work…repairs cost $150/hr, and coming to a job for a small patch job is $150….
We would like to have more experience B4 doing for real.
Our thoughts.
Dave
As of today, I can only see that about 13 operators have joined the LMCCA. What is the feedback from those who have joined? Does the designation in advertising or otherwise help at all? Does the organization provide any useful benefits? Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks.
We did/do exactly what Jeff did. We use it for a generator on remote jobs where there is no power. Lifting the Ninja is not a problem yet, but a 200# generator is…
Easy to fit hardware and pine boards and done in 5 minutes or so.
Dave
We have a $90 min charge, depending upon location then $135 for distant locations in county…we would charge the minimum. Build a customer and referral that way, and still make money, even on a small job. I would use the Oreck with brush and be in and out in 45 min.
Just our thoughts…
One of the biggest complaints of the Oreck unit was that it would not turn the pad.
To counter this problem, I cut the pad in two, forming 2 pads. With less padding, and the drive plate in a more direct contact with the working surface, it works great!
The misuse of the Tennant model to clean steps is a prescription for disaster.
You may get away with using it on steps…5-10-1,000 times…but there is a moment that may occur where one is distracted or thinking of something else for a split second, turn on the buffer, 1/2 on and 1/2 of the step and whammo…it flies across the step and thru the wall…
One can call the doer of this deed a total dummy, or not too bright, or plain stupid…one might be right! But he would be a total idiot to try for a third time! First time shame on them, second shame on me and there was no third time…I got the Oreck.
I know of one operator who lost control of the buffer and landed at the bottom of the steps…injured and off work for some time.
For your own sake, for the sake of your family and your business and customers…please use the Oreck…it works great and is much safer and easy to use…Thanks,
Just my 2 cents for those who still use the buffer on steps.
Like to hear of the accidents involving property or person using the buffer on steps vs the Oreck…I can’t even imagine the “near misses”.
You just heard of 2 and only cost about $200 total to fix, no injury to me however.
Please be safe…Dave
Mike is pretty much on the money…unless you have a front loading hi speed machine…you had better not use a lot of Clorox on a lot of loads like we did… the driving mechanism in the rear is made of plastic and it corroded until broke…fixed under warranty.
Just switched to sodium tripolyphosphate about a week ago and my worst pads are brightening up…1/4 cup(STPP) + 1/3 cup Clorox. STPP for those too young to remember is what used to be in laundry soap…not very environmentally friendly, but is going to the POTW, not the environment…and when used occasionally really does work…
We post vacuum virtually every carpet…there is always something or many somethings pulled out of the carpet with the BBC…they will clog up the vac however and have to be unclogged from time to time…but leaves the carpets looking and feeling and of course smelling clean…
Just our 2 cents worth.
One thing we all do use that is Green…of sorts. Our vacuum cleaners are CRI Green Label and that is a good thing. ot many are Green Label out there.
Personally, I would be careful using “Environmentally Friendly” in ads or language. Phosphates were banned many years ago from laundry products and they are not environmentally friendly…actually just the opposite.
The HWE guys though idle their trucks and pollute like crazy…
Food for thought.
Right Gary…like Kenny sang years ago…”know when to hold them, know when to fold them and when to run away….” or words to that effect.
Three days ago I came to a job that I should have run from. BLACK trail up steps and the LR all but black on a light beige carpet. I refused the steps and should have refused the rest of the job….
Live and learn. I will not waste my back, time and equipment like that again.
Just my 2 cents n the subject…
Mine as well….
Brings up an interesting point…is dirt the same in WA or FL or PA or AZ or anywhere??? For that matter is the dirt encountered in eastern Lancaster County the same as that in other parts of the County??? The answer is not hardly.
Something to think about. We are so fortunate to have a large number of arrows in our quiver to use against whatever soil type/carpet type we may encounter.
Thanks Cody!
Dave
Never have in my Ninja and only when I run FAE through my sprayer, 2-4 times a week. (The latter only recently.) Never had any gunk build up in 4 years that I know of.
Just our experience.
Dave
I have not done baths other than the flooring…but if I chose to, I would use the brush attachment to the Oreck and have at it. I use it in tight places on the floor.
Hope this helps…
Dave
One tiny little detail that has not been mentioned with regard to minimums… and that is, the cost of living.
I looked at Sperling’s and what did I find???? The cost of living in Long Beach, CA is 39.9% higher than in Lancaster, PA…or in other words, a $90 minimum in Lancaster, PA is almost exactly equivalent to $125 in Long Beach.
Phoenix is 17.4% higher than Lancaster, Montgomery, AL 6.4% less and Monroe, AL….well, it hard to tell…but probably the same or a few percent less.
It might be a good education to research the cost of living around the country and then have a better, or at least a more informed appreciation…for pricing. I looked up D.C. and almost fell out of my chair….
Hope this helps in pricing…but it can get confusing methinks.
Someone a long time ago told me that it makes no difference what you make in dollars…it’s what you keep that counts.
Dave
Now I am confused….
Gordon, you spray the enzymes, then buff with a damp pad after the 15 minute dwell time, then apply 101 and clean as normal? Why buff with a damp pad? Seems like a waste of time to me. Am I missing something?
Just need a little clarification…
We spray the fresh enzyme, move equip inside and let dwell for 10-15 min then spot spray if required and then respray with 101, then buff as normal. Here we usually use the BBC pad and then a woven turfs to polish.
Thanks, Dave
