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Hi everyone can you tell me how to mix these straight or dilute with water and extraction use or use with out steam iron . I will try to get some red dye out tomm and or vomit down the road yeah i been trying to keep clear from these types of stains but cant run forever also have any of you cleaned with our cherry almond or orange D and had anyone tell you after you cleaned they had dirty socks i never heard this before when just cleaning with 101 and citris booster im stumped here? Thank you all!
Hi Gary!
You do not dilute either the red dye or the wood stain remover. If you want the most details. Go to you HB manual and it is the best resource for these types of questions. As a general rule of thumb though, mix equal parts of each A and B or 1 and 2. Apply directly to the spot. Make sure that you are not dealing with any type of wool first, then use the steam iron for 30 sec up to 2 1/2 minutes. I clean up red dye VERY regularly and absolutely love doing it! I have done red dye spots as big as a bicycle wheel and got 100% out! It really builds relations between you and customers. You can do something that many can not. Not all spots will come out but I have seen some real amazing things come out though, like rug dye from a mexican silk worm. Not all came out but most and the customer was thrilled!As a standard with every jug of solution, I mix 1 and 3/4 cups of 101 1/4 to 1/2 cup citrus booster, and about 1-2 ounces of OD. BE CAREFULL though. For a while, I got lazy and just poured it directly into the jug and literally OD’ed on OD. When you smell it enough, you get used to it and dont even smell it any more. A good indicator of this is when the customer walks in and says “WOW, don’t you use some kind of mask or anything!” THe same goes with the CA deodorizer.
As for the dirty socks, you can’t be expected to get 100% of the dirt up. No cleaner can, nor will they ever guarentee it. It doesn’t have anything to do with the fact that you are using CA or OD. I would venture to say that you are using too much solution and it is wicking back up into the socks. Any cleaner can go behind us and pick up dirt, but turn, I guarentee that I can go behind any other cleaner and pick up dirt. What customers are paying for is RESULTS, and WE DELIVER THAT. Today, I cleaned a 500sf LR. It was cream berber, and had lots of traffic wear. There were also lots and lots of spills. It took me 1 1/2 hours and I charged 165 for it at .33/sf which was $40 more than I quoted over the phone. (mostly because she had no idea how big her room was). When I finished, you could still see the areas in front of the couches, and there were still shadows where the traffic areas were. BUT, by dang, I got every single spill out, and spot off that carpet. When I finished, she was thrilled with the job! Did I leave dirt behind? Sure I did. Could I have done a better job? No. I did the best that I could. So, I guess that it boils down to…. if you are doing the best job that you can, nothing else matters. If you are producing results then nothing else matters.
Hope this helps. 🙂
Gary,
Baden’s advice is same as what I would tell you.
One thing I learned, I was never using a finishing pad/towel until recently and that really makes a huge difference, in not just picking up some last dirt, but letting you know if you need to go over an area with a cotton again.
Red dye removal is a big financial add-on, so I would begin to do it ASAP.
I go along with Baden and Dooley. You need to know how to remove red dye. It’s easy and profitable. When you get the stain out, you become the hero and that’s good for future business. Remember . . . berber and some carpets do have a low melt point so use caution. Also, remember that we don’t use heat (an iron) on wool carpet.
The towel will help get that final bit of soil off the carpet. I will sometimes even wet the towel before I use it. This does a great job.
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