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Agree with Sutton that replacing the pad is the way to go if customer is willing to pay. Don’t forget to treat the subfloor with a mild bleach/water mixture to kill any bacteria when you have the pad pulled. Also, a sealant of some sort must be applied to the spots on the subfloor too (either Killz or some equivalent). We’ve had customers just paint over the spot, and paint is by nature pourous and will not seal in the odor.
All my urine detector will do indicate if there is moisture in the carpet and or pad. After a customer decided to clean their carpet with a rental unit, I have seen carpets and pads over a month later wet enough to make the urine dector go screaming. I have used it on old pet stains with out success because there was no moisture left.
A lot of times with urine oders, I will treat with the Pet eEzyme making sure to try to get it in contact with the carpet pad. This requires using enough to do so, and I will step repeatedly on the area to help the enzyme go deeper. After the proper time I will flush and extract as much as possible with lots of pressure on the nozzle. Then as a matter of routine on areas of reason, I inject Orange Deodorizer or Fresh Scent in small increments into the pad and the void between the pad and the carpet. This seems to work quite well in most of my cases.
I hope I can help a few out there with urine jobs. The moisture probe is not a good tool for urine. Yes it does work, but tou have a lot of variables to deal with. Most obvious is hitting every inch of the carpet. How fresh are the batteries. What has the humidity been lattly. Go to OSH and buy a black light thay also sell a shop light that is made by craftsman that will last a long time. Replace the bulb with a black light . Urine will show up a greenish color under any black light. I use a white chalk to outline the urine so that I Know exactly where and how much to estimate. I charge $10.00 a sq ft.
The vinigar will work some but should be flushed out. the reason is that it has a low ph(acid) which will break down the urine crystals and help in cleaning. A good acid rinse will do the same. The enzyme will eat the urine and shold be flushed out also. If the urine is down int the pad a water claw will help flush the pad, but sometimes it just needs to be replaced. Last of all Ron lives in Arizona where the humidity is low, the urine cryslals will absorbe moisture in the air and cause it to release amonnia gases. That is why the moisture meter goes off on urine. Good luck.
just curious…no mention of Urine Control Deod.
Dan, are you refering to the “new” Orange Deoderizer, the product formaly known as Urine Control? If so, this product is ineffective on urine odor. Cody realized this and thats why he formulated Fresh Scent. Fresh Scent is used similar to pet enzyme. It needs to come in full contact with the contaminated material, including the pad and sub floor(providing the urine went that deep). Also, the contaminated material must be totally dry for the fresh scent to be effective. This creates an inconvienence since it is always best to first flush urine out with water. I sometimes, under heavy oder conditions, flush the urine using fresh scent. It increases the cost but reduces a return visit. I use the Orange Deoderizer, prior to extraction, to spray over the top of an enzyme treated area only to reduce the foam. We all know that urine is our biggest headache.
do you feel it is worth puting your equipment and yourself through the urine bath?? just curious .. I avoid it unless it is a small isolated area..
Pet problems are like furniture. I hate cleaning either with a passion. Rarely do either clean up as well as you would hope, and ultimately, the customer is usually not willing to take the steps needed to have the job done properly which is frustrating for us all. That said, if I don’t do it for my customer, some other person will which could make them no longer my customer. I view it as a necessary evil, especially in my market where every other house has a black lab.
Dave what do you use as a magic potion against those greasy lab stained carpets? We see way too many labs in our travels as well. in regards to hating the furniture cleaning, as hard as it is, I find it real rich and people seem to protect, almost always.
Hey dirtbag,
I would like to share my mix. I will first use fast acting enzyme, then add an additional 4 ozs. of 101, 2 ozs. quick boost, 1/2 cup citrus booster and 4 ozs. orange deoderizer to my normal cleaning solution. I seem to need to use plenty of finishing towels to remove remainder of dirt and moisture since plenty of moisture is added. Orange deoderizer not only helps with the doggy smell but I believe it is also a good cleaning agent. If I run into a specific area that the dog always sleeps, I may extract with u-mate. Suggest to the customer they should invest in a doggy bed or pillow.
We are still searching for the magic potion. Until we find it, we are using basically the exact formula Mr. Sutton mentioned. FA Enzyme (hotter water the better) with adequate dwell time, followed by cleaning solution (101, 1 scoop quick boost and 1 cup of citrus boost). Usually first use the BBC pad, then regular turf, thin white pad, and PLENTY O’ TOWELS required as last step. Number of sides required for each pad obviously varies on level of soiling. Seems to us even when the thin buffing pads start coming up “clean”, we go over it with a towel and it still comes up heavily soiled. In extreme situations, we’ll extract the area first and then follow with the pads. In the houses with strong dog odor, we may add some orange deodorizer to help with the odor (and add to the cleaning). In the meantime, we’ll keep searching for the perfect formula (if one exists), and do like Sutton and recommend dog beds of some sort along with protectant. We also recommend vacuuming as much as possible as any stray dog hairs on the carpet will just add more oil to the problem.
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