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I have noticed that heavy traffic areas can be real tough to completely clean. I have tried “fast-acting enz” and “Quick Boost” but it only helps to an certain extent. I do not have a Ninja, but will try to extract small areas of traffic prior to cleaning. This does seem to help a little. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions with traffic areas? 8)
I normally use FAE but seldom use QB. What works better for me is to add 4OZ. CLS to the cleaning solution rather than the QB. I haven’t seen much of an advantage in using QB. Start w/ dirt-napper, follow with wooven turf and finish w/ a finishing towel. If the towel comes out really dirty, re-spray w/ cleaning solution and grab another wooven turf. I really like the FAE. Seems to work great for me. I recall in a previous post that someone mentioned that “The hotter, the better” for water temp. when mixing FAE. I would have to disagree w/ that. An enzyme is a living organism. Too much heat could kill the little buggers. I think Cody explained the temp. to be equal to the hottest bath water you can stand to be in. I hope someone corrects me if I’m wrong on this. If you have left-over FAE, save it for next time, add more enzme and hotter water. It’s best to not mix more than you need.
I will use the BBC pad first usually as this will break up the soil better. Then I will use a combination of the green strip (gets deeper) and the woven turf (most absorbing pad). This usually does a pretty good job; however i will finish up with a finishing towel if needed. I just use normal 101. I hardly ever need FAE unless I’m working a commercial gig, however i will use QB. I think it works well. I will put 3-3.5 scoops of quick boost in.
Everyone knows… CLS= Clever Liver Slime! (product #-555) I don’t know what is it Brian? Could it really be #101 CLF?
Ron. 3 or 3 1/2 scoops to what, and how much?
I use 1 1/2 gallons of normal solution, 1 scoop of QB (mix well, than), 4 oz of CB (citrus booster)mix well again. Note always spray lightly with water or normal cleaner the last time spray is applied as to avoid any possible dirt attraction from the CB. I also love the turf pads because they are more absorbant and I also use the BBC pads as needed. Thin pads work great for glue down kitchen carpet.
B4 they came up with AXE for Men body spray, real men used
CLS ( Cody’s Lemon Splash ) No really, I’m not sure how CLS was planted in my head, but everyone else needs to start calling #101 by this so I won’t get confused. I cannot be retrained!!!!!!!
One of the things I really become concerned about, and don’t have the answer for is; at what point in all these additions do we become concerned about residue? I’m always afraid to add too much for fear that residue will cause rapid resoiling.
Anyway, here’s what has been good for me on really bad traffic areas. Spray with Fast Acting Enz., agitate with dirt napper—(no pad), let dwell, extract off with light mist, buff with dirtnapper, BBC, then towel. Towel again if needed. Lots of work but achieves good results.
quick boost
I add 4-5 oz of citrus booster and quick boost to the #101 cleaner, spray it a bit heavy and let it sit for 10 min. I then use the dirt napper with a pad and go over it several times. Then clean as normal. If discoloration remains I repeat the process. Works on all but the most difficult stuff for me.
I lean towards the FAE, however, I have nothing new to add concerning technique.
Here is something to consider though…some traffic lanes look better after the carpet dries completely. I used to sometimes hear this comment from customers on followup calls.
We operators don’t normally need to go back and see for ourselves. But I have coincidentally needed to go back soon after a job a few times for various reasons (one customer has a new puppy that makes some of those puppy spots for example) and have seen areas that I didn’t feel great about when I left, but I had done about as good of a job as I could. I have found that the carpets look a little better or a lot better upon my return visit than when I left the job.
I think all the extra attention we give to those trouble areas results in some darkness due to additional dampness and it makes it difficult to know if you are still seeing ground in dirt or are seeing a darker area due to wetness.
I make this point not to encourage less effort. Of course we do our best before we quit on a job. But I just want to let you know that the carpets you leave behind will likely look better when completely dry and that is what your customer will see later on.
Mike
Mike, Very well put!! I too, have noticed an improvement after drying.
Traffic areas obviously show more wear, that frayed rope look. Look at the area in question from many angles, sometimes it will look gray from one side of the room and great from the other. Sometimes just turning on an overhead light will surprise you. As for the “dry look” I could’nt agree more. Many times I have cleaned a bad room and it looked so-so…and literally within 20 minutes you can tell the difference.
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