Home › Forums › Heavens Best Forum › Stains › Pet odors
- This topic has 25 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 18 years, 9 months ago by Anonymous.
-
AuthorPosts
-
August 9, 2005 at 3:18 am #142927AnonymousInactive
I get my share of stinky pet odors as do most of us and I feel I do fairly well at solving all but the worst ones. However, maybe I can learn something else that I can use. I would like to be the local expert and be the “go to man” for my territory. I am wondering what are the steps that everyone uses to solve your pet odor jobs.
August 12, 2005 at 3:33 am #145178AnonymousInactiveWe come across our fair share of pet problems in Denver (3 jobs today, all 3 had numerous pet problems). Depending on the situation, we may black light the problem rooms as this often shows the customer that instead of having 5 pet spots, they actually have 25. Sometimes, we don’t give them the actually number we found because there are already enough dogs/cats in the pound. We first apply the pet enzyme to the spot(s). The amount we apply is usually proportionate to the strength of the odor/color. We allow it to dwell (5-15 mins), longer for heavy odor/color, shorter for light odor/color. We then extract the spot. We use the small Pro Chem extractor for the small spots, and use our Ninja for the larger spots. We usually check right away for odor after we’re done, and if there is no odor, wait another 5-10 mins and check again as sometimes it takes a while to fire back up. If another application is needed we apply the pet enzyme again. If odor is still an issue, we often will apply a liberal amount of Fresh Scent to the spot after it has sat for about 5 mins. Then after another 10 mins, extract both. If odor still remains, we will apply just the fresh scent and allow appropriate dwell time, then extract again. We usually finish with just a light misting of the fresh scent over the area when all is said and done. Obviously, if the pet has continually hit the same spot, nothing you do outside of replacing the pad and sealing the floor with Killz or polyuerethane will remove the odor. If color remains, we will try a dye treatment if the customer wants it ($$$).
Biggest thing we try to do with customers is to educate them on what is happening to their carpet when their pet soils it and all the factors that can cause problems (sunlight, pet food dyes, types of pet food- protein vs carbs, dehydration, medicines, repeat offenders and pad/floor odor, age of animal, dog vs cat smell strength, etc., etc,). So many variables to take into account that no guarantee should ever be offered before attempting to clean a pet spot. Even if you can’t clean the spot, if you can show your customer you know your stuff and sell them on the fact that if you can’t clean it no one can get it out, they should still remain your customer. We read everything we can get our hands on when it comes to pets and carpet, and feel we go toe to toe with anyone when it comes to pets. That said, we are not afraid to turn down a job due to pet stains. Some battles aren’t worth it.
September 7, 2005 at 2:50 am #145179AnonymousInactiveThanks Dave, A lot of information there. I usually flush the area first with water and extract as much as possible, then apply the pet enzyme. I always try to recreate the crime and then double it. I also use the odor strength to determine the amount of enzyme and dwell time. Anyone else have any success?
September 7, 2005 at 3:24 am #145180AnonymousInactiveLoren,
That is exactly what I do. I flush the area with water first to get as much urine out before I apply the pet enzyme. I use the sprayer to apply the enzyme as I can control where it goes and how much. I used to just pour it but noticed occasionally I would over saturate the area, thus wasting it. After I apply the PE and extract it, I then flush the area with water once again. I haven’t had anyone call me back yet.
September 20, 2005 at 3:20 am #145181AnonymousInactiveI have run into several “recalls” on pet oder lately. When our humidity rises, so does the oder. My concern is the ability of our enzyme. I had a recall from an honest customer where my urine detector picked up heavy urine where I treated two months earlier. Her dog has not been in that room since I treated. I taught her how to treat urine with vinegar and water, and to my suprise, she left no oder nor did my urine detector detect urine. Does vinegar and water work better than enzyme? I am going to do a test in her house to answer that question. I will post an up-date in two weeks. Please respond if you have something to share.
September 20, 2005 at 3:51 am #145182AnonymousInactiveI’ve had no problems with the smell coming back.
September 21, 2005 at 2:20 am #145183AnonymousInactiveBrian
I haven’t used the vinegar and water method you indicated. Please explain the process for those of us that are not familiar with it. Thanks
September 21, 2005 at 4:49 am #145184AnonymousInactiveI’m not an expert on this method, but this is how I understand it.
1) remove stain with 101
2) apply white vinegar, full strength for extreme, 1:4 vine:water for mild
3) let dwell for 5-15 min. then extract
4) rinse and extract w/ waterEnough vinegar is needed to soak down into pad, same as pet enzyme.
Any further instructions or corrections are welcome.
September 21, 2005 at 5:54 am #145185AnonymousInactiveNever done the vinegar, but here is another method customers can try that is on the Carpet and Rug Institute’s website that uses both liquid dishwashing soap and vinegar. Note the “flushing” of the soap as we all know this will leave a residue. Also, it gives some general info on urine and carpet.
http://www.carpet-rug.org/drill_down_2.cfm?page=5&sub=3&requesttimeout=350
September 30, 2005 at 1:14 am #145186AnonymousInactiveI returned to the urine infested house today after treating the contaminated areas with 50/50 vinagar and water just two days earlier. Both myself and my customer were amazed of the disappeared odor. The vinegar smell was apparently quite strong the first day, however, tamed down into the second. I know this may not be the treatment of choice, but when the areas are very large, it’s hard to: 1) get price approval from customer, 2) have enough HB product on hand, 3) have enough time to extract the pet enzyme foam from the carpet. To give you an idea of the magnitude of the area, I used 20 gallons of 50/50 solution. With the use of enzyme, I would have had $300 cost involved in product alone. The vinegar cost was $15. In time, using vinegar, the odor may return. Time will tell. Until then, I will continue to use this method on the large areas.
September 30, 2005 at 1:22 am #145187AnonymousInactive@bsutton wrote:
To give you an idea of the magnitude of the area, I used 20 gallons of 50/50 solution.
You used 10 gallons of Vinegar? I’m curious as to why the customer just didn’t replace the carpet.
September 30, 2005 at 1:42 am #145188AnonymousInactiveRon, why do you always have to question everthing. This was a room approx. 20×30. Expensive carpet of the age of two years. Would you want to try to save it?
September 30, 2005 at 1:47 am #145189AnonymousInactiveBecause that is what I do. I ask questions so that I can learn more. I question every technique that we use. I want to know why things work and not just “that” they work. Why are you being so defensive?
September 30, 2005 at 12:03 pm #145190AnonymousInactiveRon, I appologize for sounding defensive, but I guess I felt that if it should have been replaced, I would not have been treating it.
October 7, 2005 at 12:19 pm #145191AnonymousInactiveThe vinegar does not work 100% in removing the urine as my urine detector still indicated urine, however, it seemed to do a good job with the odor. The best thing to do is to replace the pad if it is in an area that is convienant to do so. I have pulled up an entire 12 x 12 dining room carpet to replce the pad. I lucked out and was able to stretch it back in with my knee kicker.
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.